There is no doubt that climate change and its effects are prompting us to reassess how we work here. It is through adaptation and flexibility that we will conserve the garden for generations to come. Here are some of the ways we are changing our approach.
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How to adjust gardening with climate change
New sowing times
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Spring-sown annuals are difficult to get established in the drier soil of May. We are experimenting with sowing most of these annuals in the autumn. Once potted into 9cm pots, we put them into a sand bed to encourage strong and fibrous rooting, before planting them out in February when the soil is moist.
New job timings
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The first frosts come later than they used to, so plants like our dahlias stay in the ground longer, meaning we must plant them wider apart to accommodate the wallflowers and foxgloves planted around them that would normally be planted in their place.
The window between leaf fall and catkin burst on our nut trees has narrowed, making coppicing for pea sticks almost impossible. Roses hold their leaves for longer, meaning pruning starts later and leaves must be hand-picked off. Roses with attractive hips will only colour up as the temperature drops; if it stays mild, the hips remain green.
Managing problems
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We are also changing the ways in which manage problems, such as new pests and diseases. Box caterpillar (which we spray with a biological control, Bacillus thuringiensis, in addition to a mating disruptor called Box T Pro Press) may be the most obvious problem we are living with, but it is by no means the only one. Over the past couple of years, tulip fire has caused us major headaches. It is
a fungal disease that causes distorted growth and eventual death of the tulip. We have removed and replaced all of our tulips, planting instead narcissi, fritillaries and star of Bethlehem flowers (Ornithogalum) around the garden.
Other plants that are struggling include aquilegias, which are prone to powdery mildew; Impatiens, thanks to downy mildew; Euphorbia amygdaloides var. robbiae, which seems to have taken a dislike to our soil; and oriental poppies, which keep dying for some unknown reason.
Changing our planting
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Now frosts arrive later, we plant foxgloves in the Rose Garden next to our dahlias rather than in the spaces they vacate. We are also using fewer biennials in favour of more perennials, so that we reduce those plants that may need subsequent watering. The crucial thing is to select perennials that thrive, or at least cope, not only with drier summers, but also our wet winters. Certain species of Euphorbia have performed well in both conditions, particularly Euphorbia palustris. Also, Iris sibirica and shrubs such
as Osmanthus and Mahonia.
Gardening without chemicals
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In the Vegetable Garden, organic principles are at the heart of all that we do. We grow using the no-dig method and use companion plants and cultural control instead of chemicals. The most time-consuming areas to weed are the gravel paths, where we are trying out removal with acetic acid.
Bokashi composting
Previously, we operated a basic cold compost process with no turning, and although this was adequate, the quality of the finished compost was variable and full of viable weed seeds. Recognising that a healthy soil is the starting point for all, we diverted some of our time into improving our composting process.
We’re currently experimenting using the principles of bokashi composting. Bokashi is the process of fermenting waste organic matter in an anaerobic environment with Effective Microorganisms (EM-1). These microbes produce bio-active substances, such as enzymes, vitamins, antimicrobials and phytonutrients, which assist the healthy development of plants and help prevent diseases.
Bokashi can be made throughout the year without consideration for temperature fluctuation. It also requires fewer work hours to process, as it does not require turning to maintain aeration and high temperatures. Crucially, it also maintains its unprocessed volume, meaning we have more end product to use in the garden as a mulch or soil improver.